It seems that anyone who has a boat has a story about their bilge pump. When you hone in on houseboat owners, it seems that anyone who has a bilge pump float switch has a story specifically about the the bilge pump float switch not working and how they either narrowly avoided a massive amount of damage or they had to fix the damage that was caused by this broken float switch.
While owning a boat can be scary on a lot of different levels, there’s nothing that is quite as scary as your boat sinking. If you talk to enough boat owners they will tell you that your best bet to avoid this is to test your switch on an regular basis. The downside is that if you do find that your float switch is broken you will need to determine what is the best bilge pump float and how to hook up a bilge pump float switch.
More...
What is a Bilge Pump Float Switch?
If you are new to boats you may be wondering what a bilge pump float switch does, or for that matter, what a bilge pump does. We will break all of this down so that you have a clear picture of what make a float switch work, how to test a bilge pump float switch, and how to replace a bilge pump float switch.
The bilge pump is a critical piece of machinery for your boat. As a boat operates there is going to be water that gets into the hull. If water continues to fill the hull, the boat risks sinking. To avoid this, your boat is equipped with a bilge pump. The job of your bilge pump is to pump water that has accumulated in the hull out of the boat. This stops water from accumulating and keeps your boat above water.
There are a variety of different ways that your boat can be set up to tell the bilge pump to run or not. All boats will have a manual switch that you can use to turn on the bilge pump. This switch is found on the dashboard and will trigger the bilge pump to start pumping the water out of the boat.
Because most houseboats are in the water all of the time, even when someone isn’t on the boat, they need a switch that will turn on and have the bilge pump start pumping water out when there is water in the hull and then shut off when the water has been pumped out. This is where the bilge pump float switch comes in.
The bilge pump float switch is a switch that will automatically turn the bilge pump on and have it pump the water out of the hull. It is designed so that when water starts to accumulate in the hull the water level will raise the switch and trigger the bilge pump to start pumping water out of the boat. Then as the water level drops, the switch will turn off the bilge pump to save it from burning out.
There are a couple of different ways that you switch can be broken. The first is when it is stuck down or it does not trigger the bilge pump to start pumping. This allows the water to start to accumulate in the hull. If this is left for long enough, the result is that your hull will fill up with water and sink.
The other thing that can happen is that the float switch gets stuck in the up position. This results in your bilge pump running non-stop. When a bilge pump runs non-stop it will eventually burn out and will not be able to pump any water that comes into your boat.
How Can I Test My Float Switch?
With the amount of horror stories you hear, and the amount of possible damage that can occur, it makes sense to test your bilge pump float switch frequently. This is a pretty simple process that can save you thousands of dollars and allow you to fix a problem before it ever occurs.
When you break down how to test a bilge pump float switch into small steps you will see that it’s actually very easy and only takes a few minutes. This is another example of how a few minutes spent to fix a problem before it occurs will save you hours of dealing with the problem.
The first thing you need to do to test your float switch is to ensure that your bilge pump is actually working. If you bilge pump isn’t working, it doesn’t matter if the switch is telling it to pump or not. The easiest way to do this is to look on the outside of you boat and see if water is coming out of the ejector hole. If it is then your bilge pump is the one doing it and both your float switch and your bilge pump are working well.
If you don’t see water being pumped out you will need to locate your manual bilge pump switch on your dashboard and turn it to on. If you know there is water in the hull then you can check the outside of you boat to ensure that the pump is in fact working. If there isn’t any water in the hull you may need to go down and make sure that the motor is running.
Once you have determined that your bilge pump is working, you will need to ensure that the float switch working to turn it on and off. First you will need to locate your float switch. This is normally in the hull and is accessible. Once you have located it, simply lift the switch up. If you can hear the bilge pump start working, you know that the float switch is working. Next allow the float switch to go back down, if the bilge pump stops pumping your bilge pump and float switch are working and you don’t need to do anything to them.
If the bilge pump either does not start when you lift the float switch, or keeps running for an extended period of time after you let the float switch go, you should continue reading to determine how to replace your bilge pump float switch.
One thing that you will notice is that you will only need a float switch when it isn’t working anymore. This is one of the reasons we suggest always keeping a spare on board. That way when you need a new one you can replace it right away and won’t be left without it. When you replace a bilge pump float switch you can then order another one and replace your backup.
How to Remove a Broken Float Switch
Once your have determined that your bilge pump float switch is no longer working your first step in ensuring the safety of your boat is taking out the broken switch. While at first it may seem overwhelming thinking about how to take out a bilge pump float switch, you will see that the process is actually pretty simple.
The first thing you need to do is to cut off power to ensure that you remain safe and don’t get electrocuted. While there are ways that you can stop power locally, it’s normally safer to just cut power to the whole boat. By cutting power to the whole boat you will help ensure that there aren’t any mistakes that lead to someone getting hurt.
The next step is to disconnect the bilge pump float switch from the actual boat. Many times there are some screws or nuts and bolts that are keeping it attached to the boat. Carefully remove these and gently pull the float switch out. You will want to keep these screws just in case your float switch does not come with them.
Once you have removed the bilge pump float switch from the housing you will see that the only thing keeping it attached to the boat are wires. Follow these wires back to the bilge pump. You will need to cut the connection to the bilge pump slightly above the connection, although it’s important to look at the connection and see if this might be where the problem is coming from.
Because this connection where the wires are the most vulnerable, sometimes this connection is actually why the bilge pump float switch isn’t working anymore. If you see some solidified green matter on the connection there’s a pretty good chance that this is the issue and you will need to cut away that connection.
Once you have severed the cords you will be free to remove the old bilge pump float switch and get rid of it.
How to Hook Up A Bilge Pump Float Switch
Once you have removed your old switch it’s time to go through and connect a bilge pump float switch to your boat. This too can be an overwhelming task, but when you process through the steps of how to hook up a bilge pump switch you will see that it is something that is easily accomplished by an average handyman or houseboat owner.
The first step is probably the most important, and most difficult part of hooking up a bilge pump float switch. You will need to connect the wires on your new float switch to your current bilge pump. In general people tend to get intimidated by wires and electricity. It’s important to keep the power off on the boat, but beyond that there is really nothing to be intimidated about.
As you go to hook up the wires there are a few things that you will need to think about. First you will want to use crimped connect the wires on your bilge pump float switch. This will help to ensure there is a strong, protected connection here. This is an area where you want to keep water out of, so these crimps will help keep it protected.
The next thing you will want to do is put heat-shrink tape over the connections. This serves as an initial line of defense against any water that is trying to get through to the connection and will help keep your bilge pump float switch operating for a long time.
The last thing to consider about wiring a bilge pump float switch is where you will put the connections. You want the connections to be sheltered from the majority of water and any moving parts. Try to place them inside of a the housing to keep them protected.
Once you have completed the wiring you simply need to install a bilge pump float switch. This means you will need to screw the switch back into the housing and ensure it is firmly in place. Once you connect the switch to the hull you should check on the wiring. You want to make sure the wires are not under tension, but don’t have a lot of extra slack on them that could get caught and cause them to get unplugged.
Once you have successfully wired a bilge pump float switch it’s time to test your bilge pump float switch to ensure that it works. First you will need to switch on the electricity to your boat. Once you have turned the electricity back on you can lift up the switch. The bilge pump should start to go. Once you have ensured that it comes on when you lift it up, you can drop it back down and make sure that it stops going.
SeaFlo 03 Review
The SeaFlo 03 Heavy Duty Bilge Pump Float switch has taken the market by storm. This switch was released by SeaFlo as an answer to the long term issue of Float Switch failures that most boat owners have experienced.
The thing about the SeaFlo 03 Heavy Duty model that is most noticeable is it’s new design. SeaFlo decided that they wanted to completely redesign the switch and create a product that was specifically engineered to meet the requirements of the modern house boat owner.
The main priority is obviously the durability. The high quality connection and award winning quality control ease this concern and help ensure that your SeaFlo Float Switch will keep your boat safe in the years to come.
Part of this redesign was a change to a more low profile construction. This allows it to huge tighter to the hull. The effect is that it is less likely to get his by a foot or another object. This helps to ensure that it stays connected and lasts for years to come.
The wiring fits industry standards and come with 14 AWG marine grade wiring. SeaFlo has added extra reinforcement to help keep the seals protected since this is where water can sneak in to ruin your float switch. In addition the switch is capable of handling 12v, 24v, and 32v, which again fits the industry standards.
What separates the SeaFlo 03 is the lower threshold for pumping. Of all the switches we looked at for this list the SeaFlo 03 has the lowest threshold to turn the pump on. As a whole this is a good thing and is considered a major bonus of this float switch.
SeaFlo 03 Bilge Pump Float Switch Review
Pros
Cons
Conclusion:
The SeaFlo 03 Bilge Pump Float Switch is our top pick. With the new construction and high durability, it's no wonder this switch has been making news across the Houseboat Community.
SeaFlo 02 Review
The SeaFlo 02 Bilge Pump Float Switch is the previous industry standard. A solid product that has all of the requirements that separates a good float switch from the rest, the SeaFlo 02 is a top product.
The SeaFlo 02 is the original model that the SeaFlo 03 has replaced. This isn’t to say that this is product is now outdated though. It has a solid construction and time has shown it as one of the best float switch on the market.
The SeaFlo uses steel ball bearing activation system. What the ball bearing lacks in accuracy, it makes up for in reliability. Because there are no electronics involved in the sensing, most people feel more comfortable with it. With that said, the accuracy can be seen when comparing the pump starting threshold (2.36 inches for the SeaFlo 02 and 1.77 inches for the SeaFlo 03).
The electrical engineering of the SeaFlo 02 is the high quality product that you would expect from the SeaFlo name. It is constructed with 18 gauge marine grade wiring and can handle 12v, 24v, and 36v requirements.
The major knock on the SeaFlo 2 has been the quality control issues. There have been reports of the switch not working early in it’s life. In addition, the seals have let some water in which has ruined the switch. This is still a high quality product, but we feel like the SeaFlo 03 is just a better, more reliable version.
SeaFlo 02 Bilge Pump Float Switch Review
Pros
Cons
Conclusion:
The SeaFlo 2 is a great option for a quality float switch. Made from strong plastic and backed by one of the top names in the business you can't go wrong with the SeaFlo 2 Bilge Pump Float Switch.
Ogrmar Automatic Float Switch Review
The Ogrmar Float Switch is a solid option. It offers a secondary choice to a market that seems to be dominated by the SeaFlo brand. The Ogrmar has solid construction has a few perks over the SeaFlo.
The Ogrmar has a unique construction that lets it stand out as compared to the SeaFlo. The construction has been built with durability in mind. The first component of this is the totally sealed box. The design is to limit the amount of chances for water to find it’s way into the box and ruin the mechanism. The other major difference in it’s construction is the ability to remove the switch. This design lets you pull the switch from the hull and quickly clean it. While initially we weren’t too thrilled with the idea of a float switch that can come off the hull, it is very well designed.
The area where we aren’t too thrilled about the construction is the design of the switch. The Ogrmar Float Switch has a very high profile. While this won’t be an issue in most boats, if you happen to work in your hull this increases the chance of it getting hit. There’s a pretty good chance that his won’t be an issue in your boat, but if you will be working at all by your float switch, the Ogrmar might not be the best option.
Ogrmar Float Bilge Pump Float Switch Review
Pros
Cons
Conclusion:
Overall a solid option. The ability to remove the switch to easily clean it is a nice addition but the high profile makes it a tough option if you will be in your hull frequently.